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ILLUSTRATED BOOK 
OF INSTRUCTION 

THE 

ROBINSON SYSTEM 

OF 

BARBER COLLEGES 



MAIN OFFICE 

121 Washington Street 
SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 



E. M. ROBINSON, Manager 

W. F. PARISH, Secretary 



Price, $1.25 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
TwoCowes Received 

FEB 1 1906 

CLASS j^'xXc. No. 
COPY B. * 



lT"9 

1^ 



^> 



PREFACE. 



In my many years of active personal experience 
in the Barber trade and its co-relative branches, as 
Journeyman Workman, Master Barber, Chief In- 
structor and Manager of various Barber Colleges, I 
have been enabled by observation and practice to 
formulate and set forth the following plain, com- 
prehensive and detailed set of rules. I feel satisfied 
that if carefully studied, they must be of inestimable 
value to the prospective student, apprentice or jour- 
neyman, in acquiring a rudimentary or primary 
knowledge of the essential points or features of 
the Tonsorial art. The many illustrations coupled 
with the paragraphed explanations are so plain and 
complete in detail as to enable the student to thor- 
oughly comprehend them. When supplemented by 
a course at one of our colleges, can not fail to 
make of the most mediocre pupil, a competent artist. 



J=J 



3 




OC/i? SPOKANE HOME 




E. M. %0B1NS0N 
cManager and Chief Insiructor 



PART I. --HONING, STROPPING 



HONING ROOM 

Upon entering the college the student is first 
taken into the honing room, apart from the main 
working room, and is there taken in hand by the 
instructor, and taught the first lesson in honing 
and stropping the razor. This instruction is by per- 
sonal illustration; the manner of holding and turn- 
ing the razor in the hand by the fingers without 
turning the hand; the angle at which it should be 
drawn across the hone, 45 degrees, as illustrated 
below; starting the heel of the razor at or near 
the end of the hone and terminating the stroke with 
the point of the razor at the center of the hone, 
carrying it at all times at the angle above stated, 
and perfectly flat at all times. 




FIGURE NO. 1. 

CORRECT HONING POSITION. 

(Note carefully position of hand and angle at 
which razor is drawn. This is one of the most dif- 
ficult arts to acquire and should be carefully studied.) 

When reversing to take the back stroke, turn the 
razor with edge up, and do not commence back 



8 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

stroke until the razor is held at the right angle 
and perfectly flat on the hone; carrying from heel to 
point, and then back to first position, as illustrated 
below. 




FIGURE NO. 2. 
Second Position, or Back Handed Stroke. 

These exercises are had with old razors furnished 
by the college, until the pupil has mastered the art 
of detecting when the proper smooth, sticky edge is 
obtained. This can be acquired only by practical 
illustration from the instructor who draws the razor 
across the thumb or finger nail of the pupil, who 
is thus enabled to detect by the sensitive feeling on 
the nail, how it feels when the desired edge is ob- 
tained. No amount of verbal instruction is effective 
in carrying to the novice's mind the character of 
the indescribable feeling above referred to; it can 
only be learned by actual college experience. 

The new tools are not furnished the student until 
they have thoroughly mastered the art of honing 
and stropping. 

There is nothing mysterious or intricate in learn- 
ing to hone properly; with proper attention and 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 9 

instruction competency is readily acquired. Many 
times when trouble is had with razors, the operator 
is as much to blame as the razor. Barbers are mor- 
tal and have their off days, at such times they can- 
not get satisfactory work out of the best tools, in 
the best of condition. 

CHARACTER 01; HONE. 

The Belgian Water Hone is used exclusively in 
the Robinson system of colleges, for the reason that 
they are nearly all of uniform grade and fineness, 
and the student is not so apt to overhone on them 
as when a Swaty one is used. The latter vary so 
much in fineness and grit that the beginner is al- 
most sure to experience much trouble in overhoning 
on them. By dampening the hone frequently and 
using the rubber to produce a liberal quantity of 
grit, a smooth, keen, sticky edge can always be 
produced. 

The proper method of honing a razor is to draw 
the blade, edge foremost, across the stone with the 
heel in advance, at an angle of forty-five degrees, 
the razor will then pass diagonally across the grit of 
the stone, as indicated in figures Nos. 1 and 2, causing 
the teeth which compose the cutting edge to incline 
towards the heel. The figure below No. 3 shows a 
razor ready for stropping after being honed on a 
Belgian Water Stone, and was subjected to iden- 
tically the same microscopic examination as figure No. 
4, which shows the condition of a razor after being 
honed on a Swaty. The relative frequency, size and 
angle of the teeth are clearly shown, and speak 



10 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

volumes for the supremacy of the Water Hone, as 
against the Swaty, particularly for the beginner. 




FIGURES NOS. 3 AND 4. 

The upper figure, or No. 3, shows the Razor after 
Honing" on a Belgian Water Hone, while the lower, or 
No. 4, shows the same Razor after heing Honed on a 
Swaty. 



STROPPING. 



Next to correct honing, stropping is the most im- 
portant trick of the trade, as often after first securing 
a good edge on the hone, it is ruined by careless 
stropping. The edge and back must be both held 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 11 

gently, though firmly on the strop and drawn over 
it with the razor held at right angles as shown in 
cut No. 5. 




FIGURE NO. 5. 

THE PROPER METHOD OF STROPPING. 
(Note position of hand in stropping.) 

It should be turned on the strop, edge up, same 
as on the hone, with the back always resting on 
the strop. The proper time to strop the razor is 
after the beard is lathered and prepared for shaving, 
as immediately after coming from the strop the 
edge is keener and smoother than is the case where 
it is laid aside for awhile. The razor should be 
turned in the hand by a movement similar to that 
employed in honing. 



12 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 
PREPARATORY OBSERVATION. 

After thoroughly mastering the art of properly 
preparing the tools to do satisfactory work, the 
student is now ready to enter the college proper 
and assume a position at the chair. 

That too many new ideas may not be crowded in 
the student's mind simultaneously, to their detriment 
and confusion, they are permitted to spend the first 
day or two in observing the manner in which the 
older pupils perform their work. This enables them 
to better memorize the various positions and move- 
ments in seriatim, and is a great aid in preparing 
them to receive and absorb to the fullest, the actual 
demonstration work which they are ready to receive 
from the instructor. 

PRIVATE DEMONSTRATION. 

In a private demonstration room, adjoining the 
main practice room, are several chairs at which the 
first actual lessons in Barbering are given. Here 
the student just commencing is removed from the 
direct observation of their class-mates or others, 
except the instructor, until they have acquired a 
measure of self confidence and enough dexterity in 
the use of the tools, as well as the position in which 
to hold and draw them, as will insure their freedom 
from embarrassment when they enter the college 
proper. This method of semi-private instruction, 
in effect and practice only at the Robinson System 
of Colleges, is provided particularly for lady pupils, 
and gentlemen whose modesty and sensitiveness 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 13 

would cause it to appeal to them " until they become 
accustomed to the work and feel that they are 
the equals of their fellow students. 

WRIST AND FREE ARM MOVEMENT. 

The importance of developing the flexibility of 
the muscles of the wrist and forearm cannot be 
overestimated. By assiduous application to the Bot- 
tle exercise and free arm movement, this flexibility 
can be developed. Such exercise could be taken 
at home, prior to entering the college. With the 
aid of the lessons and instructions of this work 
much primary progress can be made which will be 
of great benefit in advancing the pupil rapidly. 



14 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 



PART II--SHAVING 



The successful barber must be an adept at shav- 
ing. It is pre-eminently the rock upon which their 
reputation is founded. Their success in drawing 
trade to the other departments of a well conducted 
shop, and in which the principal profits are made, 
will depend in large degree upon the ability to give 
a close, smooth, rapid shave. 

It is the first service performed on the patron, 
and if done in a gentle, smooth manner, will place 
the customer in such a satisfied and cheerful frame 
of mind that during its progress he will more read- 
ily listen to the operator's suggestions for a Hair 
Cut, Shampoo, or Massage, with the result that it 
paves the way to cause the customer to accept 
the greatest amount of service. 

A poor shave will have the reverse effect. You 
will not only lose the extra work, but subsequent 
patronage as well. 

The up-to-date barber will never ask the patron 
to accept of a hair cut as soon as he takes the chair. 
First go on and give the customer the cleverest 
shave possible; show him you are an artist as well 
as an agreeable person. He will then be more apt 
to accept your pleasantly phrased suggestions and 
take all, or nearly all, the service you offer and 
are competent to perform. 

There is more in method and in policy than might 
appear at first glance to the uninitiated. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 15 

SHAVING MOVEMENTS. 

First: 

Take a position at the right side of the chair, the 
left hand on the head rest, the right hand on the 
reclining lever, permit the patron to be seated com- 
fortably, then gently recline the chair to the proper 
position. 

Second: 

Remove with the right hand the Hair Cloth, 
which should at all times, when not in use, be clev- 
erly folded and laid on the right arm of the chair. 
Spread it over the patron, drawing it well up over 
the cravat; then place the neck towel on the breast 
with the corner well back of the right ear; tuck 
neatly between collar and neck to the center, or 
apple in neck, then take the opposite corner in the 
right hand and carry back of the left ear, tucking 
in as on the other side. This will leave the lower 
end of the towel laying square across the breast and 
overlapping the Hair Cloth. Place the shaving pa- 
per below the end of the neck towel and you are 
ready for lathering. 

Third: 

Take the lather mug in the left hand and pro- 
ceed to the hot water boiler; rinse out cup and 
brush thoroughly before using on each customer; 
add a few drops of boiling water and stir the lather 
to about the consistency of cream. Apply to the 
beard by a gentle rotary movement, holding the 



16 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

head in the palm of the left hand, so that it may- 
be turned at will with ease, completely covering 
the entire surface to be shaved. Avoid as much as 
possible getting the lather between the lips, and 
should any so lodge, remove it with the index finger 
covered with a portion of the towel. This is impor- 
tant, as much of the pleasure of a shave is marred by 
a careless daubing of the customer's mouth and mus- 
tache with lather. 

Rub the beard thoroughly with the right hand, 
then spread a smooth coating of lather over all por- 
tions to be shaved, this to keep the face from dry- 
ing in spots, while you are stropping the razor. Now 
wipe your hands dry and commence to strop. 

Fourth: 

Take the razor you are about to use and strop on 
the canvas side first, finishing up on the leather. 

With the right thumb draw a line of demarka- 
tion, removing the lather from above the center of 
the right ear, around and close under to the hair 
line. Wipe the thumb dry on the towel covering 
the head rest, and place it above the shaving line, 
drawing the skin tight and straight up, never side- 
ways. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 17 




FIGURE NO. 6. 

First Position in Shaving*, Showing* How to Hold the 
Razor. 



Fifth: 

With the razor open in the right hand, as shown 
in figure 6 above, which is first position, proceed to 
draw the first downward stroke, cutting across the 
beard at an angle of forty-five degrees towards you. 
Continue downward about two thirds the length of 



18 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

the cheek, cleaning the shaved portion of the face 
thoroughly as you go, so the left hand will not slip 
in drawing the skin tight when the second position 
or back handed stroke is employed as shown in 
figure 7. 




FIGURE NO. 7. 

(Second position or back hand stroke.) 

(Note carefully how far down the face is shaved 
in first movement and the point at which the second 
position commences.) 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 19 

Sixth: 

With razor in hand as shown on preceding page, 
the second movement or position is commenced. 
With this movement the face should be shaved to the 
point of the chin, drawing the razor across the 
beard at an angle of forty-five degrees from you. 
Seventh: 

The operator now goes back to first position in 
holding the razor, commencing at the point of the 
chin and shaving the under jaw and neck down to 
the grain of the hair, as shown in figure below. 




FIGURE NO. 8. 

(Note carefully how far down the neck is shaved 
in this movement.) 



20 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE TSfO. 9. 

Pigmre 9 Shows the Operator Shaving" the Neck, Using- 
Third Position. 

Eighth: 

In completing the right side of the face, by 
shaving the lower part of the neck up to the grain 
line of the hair, the artist may take either the first 
or third position, preferably the latter, for the rea- 
son that in using it the operator is not required to 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 21 

change his position, while in the former it is nec- 
essary to step directly back of the chair and hold 
the razor as illustrated in figure 6, shown on page 17. 
By employing the third position in shaving 
the lower part of the neck on the right side of the 
face, the razor must be drawn at the usual angle 
of forty-five degrees towards the operator, com- 
mencing at the bottom of the hair and drawing 
the stroke upward and towards the operator at the 
usual angle of forty-five degrees, as shown in fig- 
ure 9. 
Ninth: 

Should the lather dry while shaving the right 
side, turn the patron's head, presenting the left 
side of the face, relather it, and proceed to strop 
the razor. In starting to shave the left side of the 
face, trace out the line of demarkation as formerly 
on the right side; either of three positions, namely, 
the first, with the hand turned over, the right thumb 
on back of razor, as illustrated in figure 10. 

Or second position, using the back handed stroke, 
as shown in figure 7, or third position, as shown 
in figure 9, may be used in starting. This 
side of the face to be divided in shaving exactly sim- 
ilar to the right side. 

When the upper portion of the left side of the 
face is shaved, change to position as shown in 
figure 11, which is first position as used on left 
side, continuing to point of chin. 



22 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 10. 



(Note particularly this position; it is the most 
up-to-date, safest and speediest, for the reason that 
it is only necessary to rapidly turn the hand, to take 
first position without turning or changing the razor 
in the hand.) 



rL LU ST RATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 




FIGURE NO. 11. 



Piirure U Shows the Operator Vuing 



Left Side of Pace. 



Pirst Position on 



24 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

Then take second position, or back handed stroke, 
and shave to line of hair, as shown in figure 12. 




FIGURE NO. 12. 

Figure 12 Is Second Position on Left Side of Face. 

Now, back to third position, as shown in figure 9. 
This is one of the hardest places to shave. Great 
care must be exercised to keep the skin drawn tightly, 
as illustrated in figure 13 on next page. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 



25 




FIGURE NO. 13. 

(This same method of drawing the skin tight may 
be used on both sides of the face.) 



Both sides of the face being now completed, atten- 
tion is directed to the chin and underlip. In shav- 
ing the chin use first position, taking care to draw 
the skin tightly between the left thumb and index 
finger, as shown in figure 14 on next page, shaving 
from left to right side. 



26 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 14. 

Figure 14 Shows Method of Drawing" Skin Tight Across 
Chin. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 2 7 

Shaving up to the crease and about one half inch 
below the point of chin, with the thumb and index 
finger gently raise the chin, and use first or second 
position in shaving, the neck downward to grain line 
of hair. Now step back of the chair and complete 
the neck shaving, using first position; raise to lower 
lip and finish in like manner, being careful to carry- 
razor flat on angle of lip. 

In shaving the upper lip, take razor in first po- 
sition as shown in figure 6, shaving the right side 
from within one quarter inch of the center or upper 
lip crease, to the corner of the mouth. Stretch the 
skin by placing the thumb below the corner of the 
mouth and the index finger on the nose. To shave 
the left side, turn the head slightly and take second 
position or back handed stroke, as shown in figure 
7. Finish the center of crease, by pressing the skin 
out between the left thumb and index finger, hold- 
ing the razor in either the first or second position, 
whichever is most convenient. 
Tenth: 

The patron is now shaved once over. The next 
thing to do is to clean and close the razor before 
placing it on the work bench. Never leave it open. 
Procure towel dampened in hot water and wipe 
the face thoroughly of all lather; strop the razor 
again and pick up the water bottle with the right 
hand, holding the razor between the thumb and 
index finger, as shown in figure No. 15. 



ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 15. 



(Note carefully this position. It is difficult to do 
cleverly at first, though most convenient and grace- 
ful.) 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 29 

With the water bottle in the right hand, dash a 
small quantity in the palm of the left hand and 
dampen the face moderately. To give a medium 
close shave, start at the chin, drawing the razor 
quarterly against the grain, holding the razor at an 
angle of forty-five degrees. To give a very close 
shave, draw the razor directly against the grain of 
the hair, keeping the face dampened at all times. 
To determine when the whole surface of the face 
is properly shaved, keep the left hand flat on the 
face, never depend on the tips of the fingers, as 
you will be apt to skip small portions. 

Wipe the face again with a moderately hot towel. 

You are ready now to apply any one of the follow- 
ing face lotions or washes, Bay Rum, Witch Hazel 
Bay, Hazeline, Laureline, Almond Lotion, Lilac Anti- 
septic, Kern's Antiseptic Lotion, Antiseptic Cutizene 
or Florida Water. 

Rub in well with both hands, covering the whole 
face. Dry the face with a clean towel. 

Finish the patron with any one of the following 
face creams: Witch Hazel Cream, Oriental Cream, 
Menthol Cream, Camphor Cream, Cold Cream, Violet 
Face Cream, Cream of Roses, or Alaska Face Cream. 
Rub the cream in well, and fan the face with an 
open towel until the cream is thoroughly dried in. 
Then apply French Borated Talcum Powder, by 
sprinkling on the hands and rub in thoroughly. 

If the patron wears a mustache and wishes it 
curled or dyed, this is the position in which to do it. 
The curling may be done with a heated slate pencil 
or the fingers using tin foil or paper. When this 
is completed, raise the customer gently in the chair; 



30 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

take the towel from in front and tuck in on the 
back of the neck and shave the neck in accordance 
with the style of hair cut worn. 

Take the water or tonic bottle in the right hand; 
place the left hand on the crown of the head. Ruf- 
fle up the hair gently and squirt enough water on 
to dampen slightly, rubbing the hair at the same 
time. Be careful to note the style the patron's hair 
was combed in taking the chair, and try to duplicate, 
using oil or vaseline if desired. The patron should 
always be asked if he cares for tonic of any kind 
to be used. If he so elects the hair should be brush- 
ed dry with a good stiff bristled brush before apply- 
ing tonic, then rub tonic in well with the hands. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 31 



PART III--HAIR CUTTING 



The art of hair cutting can be successfully devel- 
oped only by those having a cultivated eye for form, 
judgment, good taste and mechanical skill acquired 
by large practice conscientiously performed. 

In the Robinson system of Colleges, the opportu- 
nities to bring out and fully develop all these at- 
tributes is offered on a generous scale. Every age 
and variety of subject in endless number, embracing 
all kinds and conditions of hair, as well as most every 
shaped head, is presented to the student to operate 
upon. This, coupled with expert instruction given 
in detail, by practical illustration, as well as verbal, 
cannot fail to make of anyone who takes an active 
interest in the art, and tries to learn, a thoroughly 
competent artist in this particular line. 

A close study of the shape of the patron's head, 
the exercise of good judgment in determining what 
form or character of hair cut will be most becom- 
ing, and infinite patience in working towards the 
accomplishment of the results sought, will go a 
long way in perfecting the operator. 

The great majority of people have to a greater 
or less extent some imperfection, defect or malfor- 
mation of the skull, and hence it is necessary that 
the successful barber be able to obliterate or at. 
least minimize the effects produced by these condi- 
tions, without embarrassing the patron by pointing 
them out, or seeking advice as to how to remedy 



32 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

them. Here is where tact and good judgment of 
form will stand you well in hand. 

The following suggestions if carefully studied and 
memorized will prove of value in directing your ef- 
forts along right and successful lines: 

First: 

When the patron is shaved, and voluntarily or 
otherwise accedes to your solicitation for the priv- 
ilege of cutting or trimming the hair, make a minute, 
mental survey of the contour of the head. Note 
whether or not the last hair cut was a becoming 
one, as well as any imperfections or irregularities, 
such as cowlick, scars, thin spots, etc. Then form 
your own idea as to what style would be best suited 
to the case in hand. This requires but a minute 
and will save much time and trouble and produce 
better results than if no study of conditions were 
made. 

Second: 

A physiognomical observation, by glancing through 
the mirror from the rear of the customer, is also an 
important point in order to enable the artist to do a 
becoming job. 

Third: 

The ear-lock: Front of the ear should never be 
cut so high as to expose the end of the cheek bone, 
especially when it is prominent and the temple re- 
cedes (is hollow), and it should be cut either square 
or round and never pointed. 
Fourth: 

It is poor taste to cut the hair high up at the back. 
It should run down an inch or two below the bottom 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 33 

of the ear, according to the length of the neck and 
cut horseshoe shape and not too square, especially 
on a broad neck, but on a thin neck it should be cut 
fuller at the sides. A rather pointed round shape 
lengthens the appearance of a short, broad neck, 
while a less pointed, or fuller round shape broad- 
ens it. 
Fifth: 

The hair should not be left too blunt at the edges. 
When it is worn short and cut at the back it should 
be almost feather edged. This gives it a finished 
appearance. To define lines is too artificial and 
like the creases of ready made clothing. 
Sixth: 

The artistic hair cutter aims at improving the ap- 
pearance of the shape of the head by leaving the 
hair rather full over part of the head, lacking in 
fullness, and by cutting it shorter (thinner) over the 
too prominent parts, so as to give the head an even 
and well rounded contour. 
Seventh: 

A large and perfect shaped head will stand a 
short cut, while a small, or irregularly shaped head 
should be covered by the aid of long hair. 
Eighth: 

To work rapidly and cleverly on a hair cut, it is 
essential that the habit of holding and using the 
shears and comb to the best advantage to save time 
and avoid cumbersome movements, be studied and 
religiously practiced. The most generally accepted 
method of starting is to commence on the side of 
the head, just above the ear, though, if preferred, 



34 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

the operator may commence at the back with equally 
good results. Figure No. 16 gives the proper method 
of holding the tools. 




FIGURE NO. 16. 

(Proper method of holding shears and comb. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 35 

It will be noted that the shears and comb are both 
held in the right hand at all times, thus enabling the 
operator to avoid the delay incident to changing the 
comb from the right to the left hand, when the hair 
is held between the index and second finger, pre- 
paratory to clipping. 

The comb is held between the third and fourth or 
little finger, with the taper end resting firmly against 
the heel of the right hand. This position gives free 
use of the shears while the hair is held in the left 
hand. 

The following plates are of the latest, most popu- 
lar, and up-to-date hair cuts, and will give the student 
or journeyman a clear and comprehensive insight 
into the styles which should most largely occupy 
their attention, and to which practice should be most 
directed. 

Plate No. 17 illustrates a Clipper Cut or Full Crown. 

It is a very dressy and chic way of cutting the 
hair on young men, ranging from ten to sixteen 
years, and is invariably becoming to persons of 
that age. 

It is simple and rapid to perform. The clippers are 
used more extensively than in any other; it is only 
important that care be exercised in lining up grace- 
fully from the crown of the head to the point at 
which the clippers are dispensed with, and the shears 
employed to finish on the longer hair in front. The 
length of the hair from the crown of the head to 
the front should increase gradually without any per- 
ceptible joggle, or difference, effacing the line at 
which the clippers and shears met. 



36 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER POT/JVEGES. ! 




FIGURE NO. 17. 



PigTire 17 Illustrates Clipper Cut, or Pull Crown. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 37 




FIGURE NO. 18. 



Figrure 18 Illustrates a Half Crown Hair Cut. 



38 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

The half crown cut illustrated in Plate No. 18 
is performed in exactly the same manner, except 
that the clipper line should terminate about one inch 
above the top of the ear, leaving the hair in front 
somewhat longer and fuller looking than the clipper 
cut shown in plate No. 17, and finds its most appro- 
priate subjects ranging from sixteen to eighteen 
years. 




FIGURE NO. 19. 
Figure No. 19 Illustrates a Quarter Shingle Cut. 



This is what is termed a quarter shingle; is pop- 
ular with young business men and clerks and has 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 39 

a tendency to give fullness of appearance to the 
back of the head and neck. To people inclined to 
slenderness, the bottom is trimmed square. 

This style becomes most any shaped head, and is 
particularly suited to heads lacking the proper con- 
tour of fullness at the back, and with a full fore- 
head and face. It is also adapted to cover a thin 
or long neck. 

It is quarter shingled and may vary in length in 
proportion to the size of the head and length of the 
neck, from three to four inches all over the head, 
excepting on the back of the neck and around the 
ears it is shingled about an inch shorter, on the 
tip ends, not too high up; from one half to one inch 
high. When it is to be worn parted in the center 
and brushed down flat, the front hair should be left 
long enough to reach down to the ears, and avoid 
a break at the corners of the forehead. But when 
it is intended to be roached up or brushed back, the 
top lock may be cut a little shorter. Either the cen- 
ter, side or double part may be worn with this cut. 
Or it may be worn brushed back. Pompadour style 
(without parting). 



40 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 20. 



The above plate illustrates identically the same 
style of cut as No. 19, except the hair is wavy. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 41 




FIGURE NO. 21. 



Plate No. 21. This plate shows a medium full 
back, "a la mode." This style is pretty much like 
No. 20, excepting that it is cut a little longer. It 
is becoming to medium size head. The back view 
shows the circle of a full horseshoe and the proper 
height that it should be cut. 



42 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 22. 

Plate No. 22.. This plate shows long hair as worn 
by musicians, elocutionists, lecturers, preachers, and 
other professional men. 

The hair is about four inches long all over the 
head and shingled around the edges down to one and 
one half inches. It is cut very low down on the neck, 
to almost reach down to the coat collar. 

It may be worn parted in the center, side, or brush- 
ed back without parting, German student style. 

The style becomes most any shaped head, but is 
more becoming to small heads and long necks. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 



43 




FIGURE NO. 23. 
Figure No. 23 Represents the Pompadour Cut. 

The pompadour illustrated above (No. 23) while 
not so much employed as formerly, is nevertheless 
still much in vogue among a certain class. In mak- 
ing this cut, the hair is dampened and a little pomade 
or vaseline is rubbed well into the hair to make it 
lay or brush up while the line of trimming is being 
struck. This line should taper only slightly down- 
ward from the front to the crown or back. 



44 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 24. 

Military, or English. Peatlier Edg-e. 

The hair cut illustrated in Plate No. 24 above, is 
one not easily performed; the neck trimming or 
shaving is much harder than in hair cuts that re- 
quire a perfectly round or square outline on the 
bottom. In this style it is necessary to draw a 
nearly straight shaving line from behind the ear, 
along the quarter of the neck to as far down as the 
hair grows. It is called and generally known as 
the "Military or English Featheredge." It is much 
in vogue among military men and those who dress 
in uniforms. To trim to a feather edge and make a 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 45 

neat job, the fine end of the barber comb or a special 
neck comb must be used. The clippers are never 
employed in this hair cut; the work is entirely done 
with comb and shears. The front is finished much 
the same as the half shingle shown in plate No. 19. 




FIGURE NO. 25. 

The "Duchess," or "Martha Johnson." 

The Duchess or Martha Johnson hair cut shown in 
plate No. 25 is worn mostly by children, ranging in 
age from three to ten years. As illustrated, the front 
is cut on a slight curve about midway down the 
forehead, and in the back it is cut or bobbed off 
at the hair line on the neck. It is left quite full all 
around, so that the ears and just back of the temple 
may be heavily covered. 



46 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 26. 



The above figure shows a side view of a "Business 
Cut," and is similar to the "A-la-mode" shown in 
Figure 21, except that it is not cut so high in the 
neck. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 47 
LINING UP. 

One of the most essential points in producing a 
neat looking hair cut is to use great care in out- 
lining the bottom and edges; drawing the curve or 
straight line, as the case may be, in a true uniform 
manner. This will give the appearance of good 
balance. 

It is also important that from the starting line 
at the bottom and side edges, the finish give the 
appearance of a very gradual, in fact, almost im- 
perceptible increase in length, to the point of great- 
est fullness or length of hair. 



48 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

USE OF CLIPPERS. 

In later years the style of hair cutting has in a 
very general way undergone many changes. Where 
formerly the clippers were frequently resorted to 
as an aid in rapid work, the introduction and adop- 
tion of the new or latest styles, as illustrated in this 
book from actual photographs and line drawings from 
life, have been of such a character as to almost elim- 
inate the clipper. Nowadays the patron demands a 
hair cut of a style that requires that the work be 
done almost entirely with the shears and comb. 
However, it is important to learn to operate the 
clippers in a dexterous and rapid manner. This 
can be accomplished by paying close attention to 
learning from the start to give a full stroke from 
extreme to extreme and not crowd them along too 
fast; carry them on a true line, controlling them in 
such a way that they will not wobble. One of the 
best exercises is to draw a line on a piece of paper; 
trace it out while moving the side of the clipper 
along the line and endeavor to note the progress of 
running true to the line. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 49 




FIGURE NO. 27. 



SINGEING. 



The practice of singeing the hair as illustrated in 
the above cut, which shows the proper method, is 
employed in most cases on persons whose hair is 
of fine texture, inclined to brittleness and of sparing 
growth and density. By singeing, the ends of the 
hair are supposed to become hermetically sealed, 
and to retain all the natural oil that would, to 
some degree, otherwise bleed or leak out of the 



50 ROBINSON SYSTEM OP BARBER COLLEGES. 

hair, and thereby rob the sebaceous glands and 
hair follicles of the nutriment requisite to its growth 
and development. 

It also prevents the hair from splitting at the 
ends and breaking off. Singeing should be done im- 
mediately after the hair is cut and the taper must 
be passed rapidly over the hair ends, while the 
same is held in the comb or finger. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 51 



PART IV--BEARD TRIMMING 



A FEW POINTS TO BE OBSERVED IN TRIMMING 

BEARD. 
First: 

The beard and the hair should never be discon- 
nected on the temple; they should be cut to blend 
into each other evenly. 
Second: 

When a beard is trimmed close to the side of the 
face and the chin beard is worn long, it should be 
of a gradual length so as to meet the long beard 
without showing a blunt edge or a notch at the side 
of the chin, so as to avoid the appearance of a chin 
beard and the newly grown beard on the other part 
of the face. 
Third: 

When the beard is worn long, or a medium length, 
the side below the ears on the end of the jaw should 
be trimmed so as to avoid bushiness. It should also 
be trimmed of a gradual length under the jaw and 
chin and come to a close cut on the lower part of 
the neck. 
Fourth: 

When the beard grows sparingly, or of a lighter 
shade, on the side of the face, and grows thick, or of 
a darker shade, on the chin, it should not be trim- 



52 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

med very close over the chin or light part, so as to 

equalize the appearance. 

Fifth: 

After having trimmed a beard or mustache the 
proper shape with the shears, a razor held firmly 
over the comb should be drawn over the surface 
of the beard or mustache by combing it, to shave 
the rough, straggling hair and give the beard a soft 
appearance. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 



53 




FIGURE NO. 28. 

"ENGLISH MILITARY" 

This style whisker is becoming to most any face, 
excepting a very short or full face. It is shaven up 
on the side, from the corner of the mouth straight 
back to 1 or 1% inches below the ears. It is trim- 
med short — about one half inch long on full face and 
from 1 to iy 2 inches on a thin face. With this whis- 
ker the mustache should be rolled well up and comb- 
ed out loose and brushed back, or the curling iron 
may be used to give it an easy bend. 



54 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 29. 
rigmre No. 29 Shows a Russian Point Trim. 
This style of beard is becoming to a thin face or 
to a pointed or narrow chin. It is trimmed y 2 to % 
inch long on the side, according to the fullness of 
the face. Gradually increasing in length to iy 2 
inches at the center of the chin. On the side of the 
chin clear up to the mustache it is cut to give the 
chin the proper shape, and trimmed under the jaw 
to bring it down to a feather edge on the neck and 
also on the cheek when the beard grows up high 
and thick. The top of the cheeks and lower part of 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 



55 



the neck may be either shaven or clipped, then the 
edges of the beard featheredged to blend with the 
shaven edge. 

The mustache is slightly bent with a curling iron, 
or with the ringers, then combed or brushed up 
loosely. 




FIGURE NO. 30. 
THE VAN DYKE OR BUSINESS MAN'S STYLE 
is one of the most popular both in style and com- 
fort. It is very largely worn in hot weather; it 
gives the profile of the face in a more clear way 



56 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

than most any other style. In addition it is a trim 
that is easily accomplished by taking care to have 
the point terminate exactly below the center line of 
the chin, and the length of the hair gradually dimin- 
ish to a point nearly opposite to the corners of the 
mouth. From there to the hair line above the ear 
it should be closely cropped and cleverly blended into 
the hair line. 




FIGURE NO. 31. 
rigmre No. 31 Illustrates the "Lord Dundreary" Trim. 
Shows the "Lord Dundreary," whisker — old but 
stylish and becoming to a tall man and dignifying 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 57 

to the appearance of the wearer, hence suitable to 
a professional man. This beard runs down to the 
corner of the mouth and the chin is shaven straight 
down, a little wider on the neck. 

It is slightly trimmed at the ears, from the hair 
down to the end of the jaw below the ears; then 
the straggling hairs clipped down to avoid bushiness 
and the ends of the whiskers trimmed to a point. 
This should be done twice or three times a month. 
The hair on the temple should be trimmed down 
to blend with the whiskers. 

In dressing this beard, it should be oiled with a 
little brilliantine, then brushed down from the ears 
and brushed back from the chin. 



58 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 32. 

The Parted Beard, or "Dude Lewis" Trim. 
THE DIVIDED BEARD. 

Worn almost exclusively by members of the legal 
and medical profession. In trimming this beard, the 
first thing to do is to thoroughly brush the beard to 
either side from the middle, draw an imaginary 
line from the lobe of the ear vertically and trim the 
outline accordingly. This gives the square jawed 
appearance, and widens the effect of the face. This 
is the desideratum. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 59 




FIGURE NO. 33. 

THE FULL BEARD. 

This shows a "Full Beard;" this may be worn with 
or without a mustache and the length and fullness 
should be in correspondence with the size of the 
wearer, and should be trimmed weekly or semi- 
monthly. The sides by the ears should be cut short 
enough to harmonize with the fullness of the face, 
also on the end of the jaw bone below the ears. 
The end is trimmed to a point, either round or sharp, 



60 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

to suit the wearer's fancy and be in keeping with 
the features. The wild hairs should be clipped to 
give it a neat, smooth appearance. When through 
trimming a beard the razor should be used over 
the comb (to shave the end of the hair, which is 
cut square off by the shears), to give it a soft feeling. 



BEARD TRIMMING. 

Beard trimming is also an art, equally as important, 
if not more so, than hair cutting. The face of a per- 
son is noticed before a glance of the head is taken. 
Whatever beard a man wears, it should be trimmed 
and shaped to harmonize with his features; whether 
it is a full beard, or other style of whiskers. Every 
man should wear some kind of beard, as it was given 
man to ornament his face, as hair is given to orna- 
ment the head of a woman. It also gives distinction 
of power. In olden times a long and heavy beard 
was considered an indication of wisdom. A hand- 
some man is handsomer with the proper style of 
beard, and homely or coarse features are softened 
by the wearing of becoming whiskers, which detract 
from the coarseness of the features. 

A full beard when properly trimmed becomes most 
every man, but when it does not grow full enough, 
or of any even thickness, it may be shaven in various 
styles. The short, broad face is improved by a chin 
beard, while a long, thin face is broadened and ap- 
pears shorter by wearing side whiskers. A mus- 
tache shades off a large nose, also covers a homely 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 61 

mouth, bad teeth and thick lips. The Imperial (or 
goatee) is trying to certain types of face, although 
it has been extensively, and is still, worn by many. 

THE MUSTACHE. 

Mustache trimming should also be done with art 
and not only with the aim of shortening it. 

Few mustaches are improved by trimming. An 
extremely long, straggling mustache may be trim- 
med down some, without giving it a stiff, bristle- 
like appearance. Or a ragged mustache may be 
trimmed to improve the shape and be made to look 
smooth, and some mustaches may look fairly well 
trimmed down brush style, but it must be shingled 
some to give it a shape. The square cut — broom 
style — is almost too ugly to be worn. 

Another homely way to trim a mustache is to cut 
it short over the mouth and to leave long ends, 
Chinese like. The ends should always be trimmed 
down to harmonize with the balance. 

A mustache should always be dressed or rolled to 
give it a natural, easy appearance. When it is 
rolled on paper or curled with an iron or slate pen- 
cil it should be combed out in an easy and natural 
way. Artificial appearances should always be avoid- 
ed. It is very poor taste to leave the mustache 
rolled up in a bunch. 



62 ROBINSON SYSTEM OP BARBER COLLEGES. 



PART V--HAIR DRESSING 



No up-to-date barber, and especially lady barbers, 
can well afford to neglect learning the art of hair- 
dressing. It has of late years become one of the 
principal sources of income to many of the first 
class shops, and so long as the country is blessed 
with prosperous times, the competent hairdresser 
must continue to enjoy a large patronage. Much 
of the success that attends the competent artists 
in this line is the result in a large way, of personal 
effort. 

In every community where social entertainments, 
dances, weddings and parties of one kind and an- 
other are held, and upon all public occasions, the 
average lady would be only too glad to have her 
coiffure prepared by a competent artist, if such 
service were at hand. 

If through personal effort a number of the lead- 
ing ladies of the community can be induced to try 
the experiment, it will be surprising how soon a 
good trade can be developed in this line, both at 
the shop, and in making calls, by appointment, at 
the residences of patrons. 

There is no calling that can be learned so readily 
and easily, and none that so little stock and so 
much of labor is used in turning out satisfactory 
work. This means nearly all clear profit. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 63 

Another great advantage offered to lady barbers 
learning the hairdressing trade, is the splendid op- 
portunity it presents of enabling them to meet and 
become favorably acquainted with the foremost 
women of the community. It is, therefore, neces- 
sary for the artist to learn the trade thoroughly and 
completely, familiarizing themselves with the latest 
Parisian and Domestic coiffures. The only place 
the trade can be learned in this manner in the North- 
west is at one of the branches of the "Robinson 
System of Barber Colleges." 

By a careful study of the following plates a good 
idea of the method of starting to prepare and the 
progress and development of the work during the 
accomplishment of a stylish and up-to-date hair- 
dress may be had. The trade is taught complete 
in all its branches in all the institutions under this 
management. These plates were made from life 
drawings of Hairdress prepared by our Lady In- 
structor. 

The following five plates give, in seriatim the 
form and mode, from start to completion, of a pointed 
pompadour, showing the back and front side view, 
as finished. _i__f : IJ 



64 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGUXE NO. 34. 
Plate No. I. 

Wave the hair all around the head, part the hair 
transversely from ear to ear, also make a side part- 
ing and raise the hair on the sides, leaving it very 
fluffy and fasten with combs as indicated in the 
design. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 65 




FIGURE NO. 35. 
Plate No. 2. 
With the hair which has been tied in the center of 
the head toward the back, after dividing it into three 
parts from three rolled puffs. 




FIGURE NO. 36. 
Plate NO. III. 

Add a stem of hair about thirty inches long and 



66 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

with part of it first form a ring which is held in the 
left hand, then with the right hand form another 
ring which is placed on one side. Repeat this on the 
other side. 




FIGURE NO. 37. 
Plate No. IV. 



After fastening the knot at the base of the neck, 
add the ornament, which is composed of two branches 
of roses and leaves forming a half crown and raised 
in front. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 67 




FIGURE NO. 38. 
Plate No. V. 



PROFILE VIEW OF THE TERMINATED COIFFURE. 



68 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGURE NO. 39. 



NEW PATENT OR POINTED POMPADOUR. 



This is a strikingly beautiful Coiffure for ladies 
having a short, full appearing face. It has the effect 
of giving a lengthened appearance to the countenance, 
as shown in this front view. The dip gives it a 
smart, chic tone; it is easily prepared. The two 
smaller plates give the type of ready-to-use pompa- 
dour employed in its construction. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 89 




FIGURE NO. 40. 



Fignre No. 40 illustrates the "Mary Anderson" or Parted 
Hairdress, Pront View. 



ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 




FIGUBE NO. 41. 



Figure No. 41 is the Bide View of the same Eairdress 
as Figure No. 40, and is one of the latest and most 
fashionable prepared. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 71 




FIGURE NO. 42. 



Figure No. 42 represents a much similar Hairdress, ex- 
cept that it is made up lower down in the Neck. 



72 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 
SHAMPOOING 




FIGURE NO. 43. 

The above Figure shows the Artist in the act of Sham- 
pooing the Head. 

In applying the shampoo material, either in liquid 
or paste form, care must be exercised to not use too 
much water, nor permit the lather to run into the eyes 
or down the neck. In rinsing the hair over the basin, 
the work should be done thoroughly, and the head 
and neck well dried before allowing the patron to as- 
sume an erect position, thus obviating the difficulty, 
often experienced, of allowing water to run down the 
face and neck of the customer. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 73 
MANICURING. 

Manicuring is the art of trimming the nails evenly, 
cutting the cuticle, bleaching, polishing and treating 
hang nails. 

The trade is thoroughly taught in our Colleges and 
the latest and most modern tools are furnished the 
student. 

Competent instructors direct your every movement. 

The average price for the service is 50 cents and 
the time required to perform it is from twenty min- 
utes to one-half hour. 

Men are usually charged as much as 50 per cent, 
more than ladies for like service, owing to the 
rougher character of the hands. 



74 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 



HAIR TREATMENT AND KNOWLEDGE. 

Hair is, indeed, very like money, when one comes 
to think of it. When you have plenty of money, 
you don't appreciate it; 'tis the same with hair. 
Your hair, like your money, fades away easily and 
you hardly realize what has happened to you. So 
one day you put your hand to your head and realize 
that you are a candidate for the front row. Or 
something causes you to go into your jeans for the 
roll and you are surprised at the way it has shrunk. 
Something has happened to your hair, and it is 
going. Something also has knocked your roll. 

Thus, there are two kinds of hair decay — natural 
and acquired. To speak simply and without puz- 
zling scientific jargon, it may be said that natural 
hair decay is difficult to overcome. The edict of 
Nature is largely irrevocable. But much may be 
done to ward off Nature's march toward no-hair. 
Just as an old man may prolong his life by care, 
proper living, the use of nutrient food, and so on, 
so the hair may be helped and the decay-process 
fought by treatment, by the use of preparations 
containing chemical factors which stimulate hair- 
growth. And it may be said that most of the hair- 
tonics have more or less healing and stimulating 
properties and their intelligent use is to be com- 
mended. 

The other kind of hair-decay or hair-sickness — 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 75 

the acquired condition — is temporary. This tem- 
porary weakness or loss of hair is caused through 
some general illness, as typhoid, for example; or 
it may be caused by disease caught from a brush 
or comb. In cases of this kind, treatment is always 
beneficial. The sick hair requires attention just as 
much as any other form of specific illness. The 
query is, What is the form of hair sickness and 
how can it be best treated? At present, hair knowl- 
edge is somewhat limited to specialists, but infor- 
mation of this kind is rapidly spreading among the 
barbers. In time the intelligent barber will know 
much. At present he guesses. 

Neuralgia is a frequent cause of falling hair. In 
a case of this kind electric scalp massage is a cura- 
tive agency. The value of the shampoo lies chiefly 
in the fact that in all scalp diseases, whether marked 
or even scarcely discoverable, cleanliness is the 
first essential of a cure. The shampoo brings about 
this condition. Again, many disease-breeding mi- 
crobes cannot withstand soap and water. A good 
lather is death to them, so, on general principles, 
the shampoo ?s the simplest remedial and curative 
agent for hair trouble. 

At the rool of each hair on the body there is a 
cell or atom of matter called pigment, and this 
gives the hair its color. When, from any cause, 
this pigment dries up or is exhausted, grayness sets 
in. The physicians call this pigmentary atrophy. 
Atrophy is easily explained. When a thing fails 
to reach full development, or decays after full de- 
velopment, it is said to be atrophied. For instance, 
old age is a condition of atrophy, while youth might 



78 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

be said to be a condition of hypertrophy. Or, to 
make it simpler, atrophy is less than enough, while 
hypertrophy is more than enough. The enlarged 
heart is hypertrophy; the shriveled limb is atrophy. 
Perfection is the medium line between atrophy and 
hypertrophy, and there is no living being who ex- 
actly stands on this line. 



(The publishers are indebted to the "Barbers' 
Journal" for much of these valuable suggestions.) 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 77 



PART VI.-MASSAGE 



Massage is a necessary adjunct in our modern 
life. In the old days, before men thought so much, 
when they lived by muscle, not by brains, massage 
was unknown except to a few of the leaders, such 
as Caesar and others. These world-worn men, con- 
ducting marvelous enterprises, sleeping little and 
eaten up with ambition, suffered the same as the 
modern man does. That is, they were victims of 
overwork and their health fell away. They there- 
fore employed a crude form of massage to coun- 
teract the effects of the physical and mental hard- 
ships they underwent. But the majority of the 
people were living a slow mental life, and neces- 
sarily exercising in order to get their livelihood, 
either in war or in the field, or in rough workman- 
ship, they had no need for massage. 

Nowadays, however, this is all changed. A large 
part of the world makes its living entirely through 
thought, while the other millions who earn a live- 
lihood through muscle effort alone have necessarily 
more mental activity than the men of a thousand 
years ago. They read books, they read the papers, 
they pursue pleasure; so that it may be said gen- 
erally that the modern average physical condition 
has no comparison with the ancient. To offset this 
tendency to degeneration the hygienists have step- 
ped in and have loudly preached the benefits of 



78 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

exercise, bathing and massage, particularly the lat- 
ter. Massage is a stimulator. It makes the blood 
more active. It brings the sluggish blood from 
certain inner centers of the body and fetches it to 
the exterior, to the muscles, to the skin. It is a 
regenerator. 

Chemical facial and scalp massage are particu- 
larly valuable. In the face and in the scalp are 
many small arteries and capillaries. These become 
clogged with impure blood. Owing to an enfeebled 
or slow heart action, the rich blood, purified with 
the oxygen taken into the lungs, does not fully reach 
these minute capillaries, and therefore they are not 
thoroughly cleansed at each heart beat, as they 
are, in fact, in the body of an athlete or a thor- 
oughly healthy man. And it is right here that mas- 
sage steps in. With the hand or by aid of machin- 
ery it kneads the skin of the face and scalp, it com- 
presses, depresses and fetches the blood into the 
millions of capillaries and minute veins. In this 
way the dead matter is removed and a healthful 
and tonic effect is produced. 

In the primitive stages of massage, mechanics 
were not known, but today they are. Many men 
have brought massage to a science and have called 
in mechanical aid to get the best results. There- 
fore, we now have in the tonsorial trades two forms 
of massage machines, one driven by compressed 
air and one driven by electricity. 

These machines are so perfected and are now 
fitted with specially designed applicators that they 
duplicate the work of the mere human a thousand- 
fold. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 79 

The machines now being offered the barber trade 
have a place in every good-class barber shop, and 
in high-class shops are an absolute necessity. It 
has been the experience of barbers that, where these 
machines are in use, they attract curiosity, and 
that their service, once taken, becomes a regular 
part of the shaving operation. It is also equally 
certain that in a short time the machines pay for 
the first cost, and after that they give an enormous 
return on the investment. If any barber is not yet 
posted on the question of massage, both as a science 
and as a feature of shop work, he should drop a 
line to the nearest branch of the Robinson System 
of Barber Colleges, and learn at first hand, the 
more important details of administering it, and the 
special benefits to be derived from it. 

There are three kinds of massage that are espe- 
cially worthy of learning thoroughly. 

The Chemical, invented and most successfully in- 
troduced by Mr. E. M. Robinson, manager and chief 
instructor. The Vibratory and the straight Elec- 
trical. The plain Head and Face Massage is most 
resorted to in country barber shops, where the trade 
is usually not so exacting in the service required. 

The general principle or object sought in mas- 
sage is to open up the pores of the skin, remove 
all impurities, apply to the cuticle and scalp re- 
juvenating and life restoring chemical aid in cases 
where Nature has failed to make proper provision 
therefor, cause a more general and thorough cir- 
culation of the blood to the exposed portions of the 
body, particularly the face, remove crow's feet and 



80 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

wrinkles, give the skin a glossy and healthful ap- 
pearance, cause an increased growth of hair, through 
supplying the hair follicles with proper nutriment 
and specifically to improve and beautify the com- 
plexion. 

No lady or gentleman who is at all fastidious 
in their taste, and desirous of making the most, or 
as much as they should, of their appearance, can 
afford to neglect the study and practice of mas- 
sage. It is infinitely more important than Hair- 
dressing and Manicuring, however essential these 
latter may be. 

The Chemical Massage. 

This treatment is especially intended to restore 
falling hair, avoid the spread and development of 
"Alopecia Areata" (Bald Spots), and to so enliven 
and tone up the scalp and hair follicles as to pro- 
mote a healthy and luxuriant growth. Only the 
purest of ingredients are employed in compounding 
the two different formulas used in this treatment. 

The first, or No. 1, application is preceded by a 
thorough massage and steaming of the scalp. This 
is done with the largest of special hoods, 
and when the pores are opened up and have exuded 
all local impurities, the head is thoroughly sham- 
pooed and the hair cleansed of all oily or greasy 
substances. Then the chemicals are applied and 
after being well rubbed in the hood is 
brought into use again, to drive the chemical com- 
pound into the roots of the hair and the pores of 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 81 

the scalp. Then apply tbe hood, which steams the 
scalp thoroughly and opens up the pores, it also 
drives the chemicals into the roots of the hair, kill- 
ing the hair parasites that find lodgment in tbe 
tollicles; it completely loosens and removes the 
dandruff germ, and by its great cleansing properties 
removes the substances upon which they in part 
exist. 

Its curative properties have been highly recom- 
mended by eminent physicians who have tried it in 
this city. This system of massage is taught only 
in the Robinson System of Colleges. The chemicals 
can only be driven into the roots of the hair follicles 
by the use of the steaming hood. 



Vibratory Massage. 

There are on the market a variety of machines 
for administering the Vibratory Massage. In the 
larger cities where both direct and alternating elec- 
trical currents and compressed air are to be had 
daytime as well as night, machines designed for 
such use are employed. They are quite expensive, 
though add much to the appearance of the shop; 
however, they are not one whit more effective, or 
more easily operated than is the Dry Cell Battery 
Machine that does not depend on power plants for 
motive. 

The latest Dry Cell Battery Machines on the 
market will give from 450 to 500 massages; they 
have a battery of twelve cells, are portable, compact 
and ueat. 



82 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

They are guaranteed to give 2,500 vibratory move- 
ments per minute, and this is as great a speed as 
any machine can be worked on the face. In all 
other respects they are identical to the power ma- 
chine, the same make and style of kneading, cleans- 
ing and massaging bulb and rubber agitator is used. 

The machine is so arranged that three different 
speeds may be attained, the minimum, or that used 
in tempering the face, head and neck, to the move- 
ment. The secondary, used in the cleansing process, 
and the maximum, used to knead the skin, remove 
crow's feet, wrinkles, horizontal lines from the brow, 
and to make or give to the cheeks, forehead and 
neck that plump, rosy and beautiful appearance. 

The skilled masseur or operator who graduates 
from the Robinson System of Colleges, is enabled to 
apply the treatment in a scientific and successful 
manner. 

Electrical Massage. 

This is the application of electricity direct to 
the patron's face, after the current has been passed 
through the operator's hands, by means of an elec- 
trode fastened to the wrist with a strap. It differs 
from the Vibratory in that by this system you 
get an actual current of electricity to pass through- 
out the skin on the face and neck. It draws the 
circulation to the skin, stimulates the face nerve 
system, and is in general, one of the most effective 
agencies in bringing about a healthy condition and 
good color to the face. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 83 

PART VII-SKIN DISEASES AND 
ANTISEPTICS 



Q. What precaution would you take in shaving 
a face on which there was any kind of skin disease? 

A. Provide for strict antiseptics, or an antiseptic 
condition, so that contagion would be avoided. Be- 
fore shaving use a hot water towel; bathe the face 
and discard the towel. After shaving would sterilize 
all instruments used. Would also wash the face 
with an antiseptic. Would also wash my own hands 
in antiseptic wash, a solution of Formalin, carbolic 
acid, or something similar. 

Q. What effect does close shaving have on the 
skin? 

A. After shaving close, with a microscope you 
can see exudation of blood, though, of course, it 
is not visible to the unaided eye. The effect of 
close shaving on the skin is to render it all the more 
liable to skin diseases, especially to those which 
are contagious. Also, if the person so shaved has 
within him the germs of a skin disease, close shav- 
ing will bring it to the front. 

Q. What effect does facial massage have? 

A. Facial massage has two distinct effects: First- 
ly, the kneading process causes the skin to exude 
and give out certain deleterious matter it has ac- 
quired from the air, which is more or less filled 
with dust, or which accumulates in the system. The 
kneading given in facial massage works this out. 
Secondly, Facial massage brings into the minute 



84 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

capillaries of the skin a fresh supply of blood, forc- 
ing the blood into every capillary to which the mas- 
sage is- applied. This, of course, makes for a much 
healthier facial condition, so that facial massage is 
a cleanser as well as a stimulator. 

Q. What is eczema? 

A. Eczema is an inflammation of the skin, ac- 
companied by papules, pimples, etc., and is usually 
attended with a discharge of serum. 

Q. What is Acne? Describe its appearance. 

A. Acne is a general term used to designate a 
skin upon which there is marked pustular inflam- 
mation. This comes from a diseased condition of 
the sebaceous glands; it often affects the hair fol- 
licles. Acne is best represented by a face which 
is usually covered with pustules or pimples. It is 
generally accompanied with sluggish circulation. 

Q. Name three antiseptics. 

A. Formalin, Corrosive Sublimate and Carbolic 
Acid. 

Q. What are they used for, and what is their 
effect? 

A. They are used for washes in connection with 
shaving, for the purpose of preventing contagion. 
When used this way, they are germ-killers. They 
are also used for sterilizing the various tools and 
implements used by the barber. 

Q. If you should use a lance, needle, tweezers, 
etc., on a man's face, how would you cleanse them? 

A. They could be cleansed by boiling in water, 
into which has been introduced a little potassium 
carbonate, which will prevent rusting. If there is 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 85 

not time for this, they may be dipped in a solution 
of Formalin or pure Carbolic Acid, after which they 
should be rinsed in distilled water. 

Q. If you should cut a man how would you check 
bleeding? Name three astringents. 

A. Would check bleeding by using pressure, that 
is, take a towel and, with the fingers, press the cut 
together so as to prevent the flow of blood. Or 
would use astringents. The names of three astrin- 
gents are Sulphate of Iron, Alum, and Tannic Acid. 
Or would use a Styptic preparation in liquid or 
powder form. 

Q. How would you cleanse a cup for shaving? 

A. By washing it out with boiling water, or by 
washing it out with an antiseptic solution, such 
as Formaldehyde or the like. 

Q. How would you cleanse a razor? 

A. After carefully wiping it, would place in a 
sterilizer or would boil in hot water, or would treat 
it to a four per cent, solution of Formaldehyde or 
other antiseptic. 

Q. How would you cleanse brushes, combs, etc.? 

A. Would place them in a sterilizer in which 
steam or antiseptic fumes are used v A comb can be 
sterilized by dipping into a four per cent. Formalde- 
hyde solution, that is, 2*4 tablespoonfuls of Form- 
aldehyde to a quart of water. Brushes may be ster- 
ilized by wrapping them up over night in a cloth 
soaked in the same solution. 

On the Hair and Scalp. 
Q. How does the hair derive its life? 
A. The hair derives its life from the blood and 



S6 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

lymphatics from which it absorbs the natural food 
supply. 

Q. Why does the hair fall out? 

A. Falling hair may be caused by a great many 
conditions which may be described as local and 
constitutional. The local conditions are lack of 
proper nourishment, disease of the hair follicle, 
atrophy and shrinkage of the hair bulb, and then 
again there are various parasitic conditions which 
will cause falling of the hair. Alopecia is another 
disease. In constitutional cases we find syphilis. 

Q. Why does the hair turn gray? 

A. The normal pigment coloring matter is ab- 
sorbed from the blood. The color of the hair de- 
pends upon four facts, namely, first, diffused pig- 
ment; second, granular pigment; third, air condi- 
tions, and, fourth, the superficial character of the 
hair. The cortex plays the chief part in determin- 
ing the color of the hair. Grayness or Canities may 
be either acquired or hereditary. It may be partial 
or complete, or it may be sudden or slow. Congenital 
Canities usually occurs in the form of gray tufts, 
and the acquired Canities or grayness may be either 
premature or senile. The hair in Canities is usually 
dry, stiffer and often coarser than normal. It is 
usually due to the absence of pigment and the pres- 
ence of air. 

Q. Why do you singe the hair and what is the 
effect? 

A. The hair should be singed frequently. It is the 
usual notion among barbers that the hair when cut 
bleeds. I believe that the opinion is that the singe- 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 



87 



ing of the hair, will prevent this bleeding. Singe- 
ing of the hair, in my opinion, is very beneficial. 
Q. Why does the hair split and break at the ends? 
A. This condition is usually called Fragilitis 
Cranium. We usually find that when the ends of 
the hair split, that the bulb is also atrophied and 
sometimes even broken and split. 

Q. What effect does continuous cutting have on 
the hair? 

A. It tends to make the hair more coarse and we 
believe also that it makes the hair stronger, although 
not in every case. 

Q. What effect does alcohol have on the hair? 
A. It has a very beneficial effect, when used in 
the form or composition of a tonic. 

Q. What do you understand by dandruff? 
A. Dandruff is of two varieties, Seborrhoea, Sicca 
or Aleoso, and Pityriasis Simplex; that is, greasy and 
dry dandruff. In the greasy type the two little se- 
baceous glands which surround each hair secrete 
an abnormal amount of sebaceous or oily matter 
This is deposited on the scalp at the mouths of the 
hair follicles in the shape of dandruff. The dry 
dandruff is usually caused by the opposite condi- 
tion of the sebaceous glands. We believe that the 
primary cause of dandruff is a parasite or germ 
found in and about the follicle and the sebaceous 
glands. 

Q. Is dandruff transmissible? 
A. Yes. 



88 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

Q. Why? 

A. Because we believe that it is due primarily 
to a germ or parasite which is easily carried from 
one person to another. 

Q. What is the cause of an oily condition of the 
scalp? 

A. The secretion of too much oil by the oil or 
sebaceous glands is very apt to cause a very oily 
condition of the hair and scalp. 

Q. What causes extreme dryness of the scalp? 

A. Lack of proper nutrition, lack of sebaceous 
matter which should be secreted by the sebaceous 
glands. 

Q. What is the effect of scalp massage? 

A. The effect of scalp massage is very bene- 
ficial, because it stimulates the blood and nerve sup- 
ply of the scalp. This tends to supply a greater 
amount of nutrition to the hair and glands. 

Q.' What effect does brushing have on the scalp? 

A. Brushing the hair once a day with a brush 
not too stiff is very beneficial. 

But excessive brushing of the scalp with a very 
stiff brush is very apt to cause an irritated condi- 
tion of the scalp and if the brush happens to be un- 
clean it may be the means of transmitting a great 
many diseases. — ("Barbers' Journal.") 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. S9 

SCIENCE IN THE BARBER SHOP. 

As an Aid to Attract, Interest and Benefit Customers. 

George A. Schmidt, Sr., Chicago, in "Barbers' 

Journal." 

Few, if any, sayings are of greater practical value 
than is the late Professor Huxley's definition of sci- 
ence, which he puts into these words: 

"Science is, I believe, nothing but trained and 
organized common sense, differing -from the latter 
only as a veteran may differ from a raw recruit. 
The vast results obtained by science are won by no 
mystical faculties, by no mental processes other than 
those which are practised by every one of us in 
the humblest and meanest affairs of life. The man 
of science, in fact, simply uses with scrupulous ex- 
actness the methods which we all habitually arid 
frequently, use carelessly." 

Carnegie, the millionaire ironmaster, also ac- 
knowledges that he made his millions by adopting 
new and scientific methods in his business; and if 
others of our successful business men were as frank, 
they would have to acknowledge the same thing. 
Not their own smartness alone, but their co-operation 
with those who "knew how," better than they did 
themselves, enabled them to use their executive 
abilities to make fame and fortunes. 

Science, as above explained, will enable you to 
climb from the over-crowded lower levels of busi- 
ness towards the top, where there is room and air 
and light to grow in. 

We quote the above authorities as an excuse for 



90 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

our persistent efforts to make others see things as 
they appear to us. We express repeatedly our un- 
shakable conviction that practical science, the kind 
Professor Huxley explains, is the only safe and 
sure method to "get there." 

It is not at all necessary that every barber should 
study chemistry and dermatology; that would do 
more harm than good; in fact, much harm has been 
done to the barber profession because some members 
of the craft forgot that all kinds of knowledge must 
be made to suit the party whom you try to interest 
and benefit. Practical science, the most valuable 
kind, grows and develops. "Through practice to 
science" should be the motto of the barber. 

It is not at all necessary that every member of 
the profession should be able to give the Latin names 
and the history and peculiarities of skin diseases 
which might be contracted or observed in the barber 
shop. Simplicity should guide the barber in his 
conduct towards his customers. "Putting on airs" 
does not attract customers. Better let your customer 
imagine he is the smarter man; but, if the con- 
versation turns that way, or you think it wise to 
lead it in that direction, show your knowledge about 
skin cultivation and germ eradication by explain- 
ing that it is very much like, and as simple as the 
cultivation of the soil. 

As Agri- Horti- and Flori-culture increase the yield 
of the soil and make "the skin of the earth" more 
beautiful and profitable, so does the barber's work, 
and his directions improve appearances as well as 
health, vigor and comfort. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 91 

Real knowledge is like seed; it grows and de- 
velops in a natural way, something like the tree. 
There are a number of prominent barbers whose 
establishments have grown and branched out so 
that their proprietors not only practice and direct 
the cultivation of the skin of the face and scalp, but 
they give also baths, shampooing, manicuring and 
massaging a proper attention. 

There are many reasons why barbers should as- 
sume the direction of progressive methods of skin 
culture. His profession is the oldest one in the 
field, and the only one which practises skin sterili- 
zation according to correct principles. 

To recognize the scientific side of the barbers' 
work, we must put a magnifying glass to our mind's 
eye; then we can observe how the soap solution, 
which the modern barber applies to his customers' 
beard is massaged into the skin, under the hair to 
be shaved off. And then, by the gradual addition 
of water, with gentle friction, kneading and rubbing 
(either at pleasure or according to the rules of some 
learned masseur) loosens, detaches, wraps up in a 
soap film and finally lifts up and holds firmly in a 
creamy, heavy lather, not only the hairs to be cut 
by the razor, but everything which ought to be re- 
moved from the human skin. 

While doing this job, the work may be likened to 
the oyster-fishers whose improved tools detach the 
luscious bivalves, gather them in nets and brings 
them up to the surface. 

As the spider catches the insects by surrounding 



92 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

them with delicate webs, so does the barber work 
while making his lather on a person's face. So 
far, this has been done only to catch the bits of 
hair to be shaven off; but if you do the same thing 
on a diseased portion of skin and add to the lather 
that particular medicament which acts on the mi- 
crobes causing the trouble — as salt does on leeches, 
which loosen their grip as soon as it is applied — 
you will be able to gradually catch and remove all 
of the minute pests which are the cause of the va- 
rious skin, troubles. 

Many an ailment which baffled the skill of em- 
inent skin specialists has been cured without any 
chemically acting medicine, simply by the method 
above described. As it is inexpensive, it pays to 
try it. 

If you bear in mind the likeness of the human 
skin to the surface of the earth, you will under- 
stand why different "tools," different kinds of soaps 
may be needed. As the ax, and saw, the plow, hoe, 
spade, harrow, etc., are needed as the forest, the 
prairie, the field, garden, etc., is to be cultivated, as 
the animals as well as the weeds to be destroyed 
and removed to make room for useful plants require 
different appliances, so it is with the human skin. 
In cases where the above simple treatment is not 
sufficient, modifications of the described "tool" may 
be needed, but we will reserve the explanation of 
such special cases for another essay. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 



PART VIII-FORMULAS 



93 



The following Formulas are from the recipes of 
Prof. McConnaughay, and will be found to be the 
best, cheapest and most easily prepared. They em- 
brace about all that are necessary for the successful 
practitioner. 

BROWN HAIR DYE. 

Take four pounds of green walnut hulls. Put 
them in one and one-half gallons soft water and boil 
down to three pints. Strain off through cloth until 
clear of sediment. To one quart of this add one quart 
alcohol, and three ounces glycerine. 

Use as other restorers, once a day until the de- 
sired shade is obtained. The hulls should be gath- 
ered in August. 

QUININE HAIR TONIC AND SEA FOAM. 

The strong point in favor of this preparation as 
a sea foam is that it acts at the same time as a 
tonic for the hair. 
Formula: 

Alcohol 1 pint. 

Glycerine //2. ounce. 

Tincture of Cantharides y 2 ounce. 

Aqua Ammonia y 2 ounce. 

Sulphate of Quinine 30 grains. 

Oil of Cloves one drachm. 

Rock (or table) salt % ounce. 

Distilled or rain water one pint 

Directions— When using as a sea foam, wet the 



94 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

hair and rub briskly with the finger ends until the 
foam has disappeared. Then take a towel and rub 
partly dry. When using as a dandruff cure, sea foam 
twice a week, dampen the hair twice a day for two 
weeks, after which use once a week as a sea foam. 
This will keep the scalp in fine condition. 

CREAM FOR CHAPPED HANDS AND FACE. 

Formula: 

Quince seed % ounce. 

Distilled extract Witch Hazel 1 pint 

Glycerine % pint. 

Alcohol !/4 pint. 

Powdered Boracic Acid 1G0 grains 
Carbolic Acid 32 drops. 

Perfume to suit. 

Directions for Making. 

First put Quince seed in Witch Hazel and let 
stand twenty-four hours. Then strain through cheese 
cloth and add the other ingredients. 

PYTHIAN CREAM FOR THE FACE AND HANDS. 

Formula. 

Gum Tragacinth (in flake), V 2 ounce. 

Glycerine, four ounces. 

Distilled or rain water, y 2 gallon. 

Directions for Making. 

Put Gum Tragacinth in water and let stand until 
thoroughly dissolved, and strain through a cheese 
cloth. Then add the glycerine and a sufficient 
amount of Pythian boquet to perfume. Color pink 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 95 

with powdered carmine. It should be about the 
consistency of cream. If too thick add more water. 
There should be a half gallon of water to the 
four ounces of glycerine when finished. 

BAY CREAM. 

This differs from Pythian Cream only in the per- 
fume. Some like the Bay Rum better. 

Directions. 

Use the formula of the preceding, and then add 
perfume with genuine Oil of Bay. 

COLD CREAM. 

The only difference between this and the two pre- 
ceding creams is that instead of perfume a com- 
pound of Alcohol and Menthol is used. 

Directions. 

Use the same body as for Pythian Cream, and 
then add Alcohol and Menthol as follows: Put six 
drachms of Menthol crystals into an ounce of Alcohol. 
When the Menthol is thoroughly dissolved add this 
combination to one half gallon of the cream. The 
presence of the Menthol gives this preparation a 
very cooling effect, hence its name. 

BAY RUM. 

No. 1. 

Bay Oil, y 2 ounce. 
Oil of Pimento, *4 ounce. 
Alcohol, 3 pints. 
Water, 3 pints. 



96 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

No. 2. 

Magnesium, 14 pound. 

Oil of Bay, y± pound. 

Mash them well together and put them in a filter 
and pour in two quarts of water. Let it filter slowly 
and then add two quarts Alcohol. 

IMITATION OF BAY RUM. 

No. 3. 

Oil of Bay, 3 drachms. 

Oil of Pimento, y 2 drachm. 

Water, iy 2 quarts. 

Acetic Ether, iy 2 ounces. 

Alcohol, 2 quarts. 

Mix and let stand three days, then let filter. 

CAMPHOR ICE. 

Oil of Sweet Almonds, 2y 2 ounces. 

White Wax, 2y 2 ounces. 

Spermaceti, Zy 2 ounces. 

Gum Camphor, % ounce. 

Mix together, melt and pour into small salve box. 

MENTHOL SALVE. 

Mutton Tallow, 1 ounce. 
Lard, 1 ounce. 

Menthol (in crystals), 3 drachms. 
Melt together and pour into small boxes. 
Both the Camphor Ice and the Menthol Salve are 
good for tender faces. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 97 

SILVER GLOSS SHAMPOO. 

White Castile Soap (the very best), 1 pound. 
Refined Carbonate of Potash, % pound. 
Distilled or rain water, 1 gallon. 
Table Salt, y 2 ounce. 

Directions. 

Shave the soap fine, put into the water, which should 
be contained in a porcelain vessel. Let it boil until 
the soap is thoroughly dissolved and strain off into 
another vessel, then add the pure salts of Tartar 
while still hot. Add the salt and enough more boil- 
ing water to replace the amount that has boiled 
away, and continue to stir until it becomes only luke- 
warm; then add a few drops of the Oil of Cloves 
(or some other perfume) if desirable. 

Finally pour off in small jelly jars and set away 
for use. One gallon made in this way will make 
five gallons of ordinary shampoo, by simply adding 
four more gallons of water. This quantity should 
not cost over fifty cents. 

One teaspoonful is enough to clean any ordinary 
head of hair. 

In cleaning ladies' hair it is well to add a little 
Ethylic Ether, commonly called sulphuric ether — 
never use hard water. 

EGG SHAMPOO. 

This preparation should be used immediately af- 
ter mixing. Take one fresh egg, one teaspoonful 
of silver gloss shampoo, and one quarter teaspoonful 
of powdered borax. Mix together with an egg beat- 
er, and then use as other shampoos. 



98 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

A CHEAP SEA FOAM. 

Take two ounces of the silver gloss shampoo, two 
ounces of Alcohol, one ounce of Glycerine and one 
pint of water; shake well together and perfume to 
suit your fancy. The shampoo or sea foam can be 
colored a nice yellow by making a tea of saffron and 
water, adding enough after straining it to get the 
desired results or color. Powdered carmine can 
also be used to color a red or pink color. 

BRILLIANTINE. 

Take one ounce good Glycerine, one quarter ounce 
of Rose Geranium, and one ounce water; mix thor- 
oughly. This preparation is a good one, and can 
be made very cheaply by using a less amount of 
the perfume. It never separates and is good as 
long as there is a drop of it left. 

BLACK HEADS. 

What are known as Black Heads are generally 
found in the skin of people who are addicted to the 
use of much pork. Such people are also, as a rule, 
rather careless about bathing their faces. 

A hint to the wise will be sufficient. 

Let them not be afraid that a rough towel will 
scratch their face. 

Formula. 

Alcohol, 4 ounces. 

Boracic Acid, 2 drachms. 

Distilled or rain water, iy 2 ounces. 

Apply this three times a day after first having 
thoroughly washed the face and rubbing dry with 
a coarse towel. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 99 

HAIR BLEACHING. 

First clean the hair with the Silver Gloss Shampoo 
and when dry apply peroxide of hydrogen until damp. 

When dry, again repeat the application, and con- 
tinue to repeat it until nearly as light as desired. 

The hair will continue to bleach a little lighter 
for about three days, and hence it is necessary to dis- 
continue the application when the hair is a shade 
darker than desired. 

WHITENING FOR THE FACE. 

Put one ounce of the Oxide of Zinc into a plate 
and pour over it three ounces of soft water. 

Mash Zinc with a spoon until it is all dissolved. 
Pour the solution into a pint bottle and fill up with 
Witch Hazel. When the weather is cold, pure soft 
water may be used instead of Witch Hazel; but the 
preparation would sour in warm weather. Apply 
with a soft cloth. 

BARBER'S ITCH. 

Fear of this disease causes many men to shave 
themselves, and this class would otherwise be 
among the very best customers. 

When these men observe how careless the aver- 
age barber is with his towels, mugs, tools, etc., they 
become disgusted a- 1 purchase a shaving outfit of 
their own and quit the barber's chair, except when 
a hair cut is wanted. 

Scabies or itch, in its various forms, is a disease 
caused by the irritation produced from the presence 
in the skin of what is called the itch mite or ova 
of the same. The cure involves the destruction of 
these parasites. 



100 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

Get a doctor if possible to diagnose and prescribe 

for the case. If this is not convenient try the fol- 
lowing: 

An ointment made from the flour of sulphur and 
lard, or Sulphur and Vaseline, is about the best 
remedy known. Rub in well at night and wash off 
in the morning. 

Or take Citron Ointment, 1 ounce and mutton Tal- 
low 1 ounce; melt together and stir till cool. This 
is a good salve for all skin diseases. 

POMADES. 

In selecting material for Pomade have a butcher 
get you some fine leaf lard and some of the finest 
suet, which should be taken from young animals. 

Render out separately in a porcelain vessel and 
strain off. 

Directions. 

Take lard, 1 pound. 

Tallow, 1 pound. 

Mix them, heat gently, and cook for one hour over 
a slow fire; remove and let stand a few minutes to 
settle; now pour off carefully. When almost cold 
add some suitable perfume, say Oil of Bergamont 4 
drachms, Oil of Lemon 3 drachms, Oil of Cassia 2 
drachms, Oil of Nutmeg 75 drops. 

Mix thoroughly with the Pomade and pour into 
small jars. 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OP INSTRUCTION. 101 

ENGRAVING FLUID. 

This is a fluid combination used for etching or 
marking Razors, Shears or other metallic tools. 

Formula. 

Bluestone, one ounce. 

Table salt, one ounce. 

Water, six ounces. 

Cover metal with soap, write mark or character 
with needle or pencil, then fill traced lines with fluid 
and let stand five minutes. Wash clean and dry 
thoroughly. 

ELECTROLYSIS. 

This, one of the latest and most important ad- 
juncts of the Barbering and Hairdressing trade, is 
taught thoroughly in our Colleges. It is the art of 
removing by the aid of or with the Electrical Needle, 
warts, moles, superfluous hair and other facial blem- 
ishes. 

First — The operation of Electrolysis, properly per- 
formed, never fails. 

Second — The length of time depends on the num- 
ber and strength of hairs, if they have been tampered 
with or not. 

Third — 25 to 35 hairs can be removed at a sitting 
of half hour (according to case). Several sittings 
can be given in succession the same day. 

Fourth — The operation is comparatively painless, 
causing merely the slightest stinging sensation. 

Fifth — It leaves no scar or trace. 



102 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 



TRADE PRICES. 

1st Class. 2nd Class 

Hair Cut 35 .25 

Shaving 15 .10 

Beard Trimming 50 .25 

Shampooing 50 .35 

Mustache Dyeing 1.00 .10 

Sea Foam 25 .10 

Singeing the Hair 25 .25 

Razor Honing 50 .25 

Neck Shaving 10 .05 

Application of Hair Tonic 10 .10 

In dyeing the hair, the charge is based on length 
and thickness of hair and beard, and varies from 
$2.00 to $10.00 for a complete job. 

HAIR DRESSING. 

Fancy. Ordinary. 

Hair Dressing, Plain 50 .25 

Hair Dressing, Fancy 1.00 .75 

Curling and Trimming Top Bangs... .50 .25 

Shampooing Medium Length Hair... .50 .25 

Shampooing Heavy Hair 1.00 .75 

Shampooing Short Hair 50 .25 

Trimming and Curling Short Hair all 

over 1.00 .50 

Singeing Long Hair all over 1.00 .50 

Singeing Short Hair 50 .25 

Bleaching Medium Length, each ap- 
plication 1.00 .50 

Bleaching Long Hair, each applica- 
tion 1.50 1.00 

Dyeing Short Hair, all over 5.00 2.00 

Dyeing Medium Hair, all over 10.00 5.00 

Dyeing Long, Heavy, Grey Hair, all 

over 25.00 15,00 



ILLUSTRATED BOOK OF INSTRUCTION. 103 

MASSAGE SERVICE. 

1st Class. 2nd Class. 

Shops. Shops. 

Vibratory Massage 50 .35 

Electrical Massage 50 .S5 

Plain Massage 35 .25 

Chemical Head Massage or Hair 

Treatment 5.00 2.00 



ELECTROLYSIS. 

Per sitting $2.50 

Each sitting requires about thirty minutes, less 
service proportionately cheaper. 



104 ROBINSON SYSTEM OF BARBER COLLEGES. 

FINIS. 

In the rapid compilation of this Book of Instruc- 
tion, it is only reasonable to suppose that some 
more or less important oversight of essential 
branches has been committed; and in some few 
cases other departments have not been dealt with 
in such elaborate detail as might be wished. How- 
ever, the prospective student or journeyman will 
find much that will be of value to them in perfecting 
their ability. 

It is the only work of this character issued by any 
barber college, wherein the illustrations have been 
taken from life. 

The Benson-Morris Company, Engravers and Lith- 
ographers, of Seattle, took the sketches upon which 
these illustrations are based, from poses given by 
our Manager and Chief Instructor, Mr. E. M. Rob- 
inson, in person. They were taken in the main 
work room and will give those interested a clear 
idea of the system employed in training and devel- 
oping our students into scientific as well as suc- 
cessful practical Tonsorial Artists. 

The Hair Dressing plates are likewise from life, 
the work being performed by our Lady Instructor 
of that and the Manicuring Department. 

Every co-relative branch of the barber trade, in- 
cluding Hair Cutting, Shaving, Singeing, Shampoo- 
ing, Electrical, Vibratory, Chemical and Plain Head 
and Face Massage; Hairdressing, Electrolysis and 
Manicuring, is thoroughly and completely taught by 
the very best of Instructors at the different branches 
oi the Robinson System of Barber Colleges. 
The End. 



INDEX 



Page 

Character of Hone 9 

Correct Honing- Position (illustration) 7 

Electrolysis 101-103 

Finis 104 

Formulas 93 

Brown Hair Dye 93 

Quinine Hair Tonic and Sea Foam 93 

Cream for Chapped Hands and Face 94 

Pythian Cream for the Face and Hands . 94 

Bay Cream 95 

Cold Cream 95 

Bay Rum (No. 1 ) 95 

Bay Rum (No. 2) 96 

Imitation of Bay Rum 96 

Camphor Ice 96 

Menthol Salve 96 

Silver Gloss Shampoo 9 7 

Egg Shampoo 9 7 

Cheap Sea Foam 98 

Brilliantine 9S 

Black Heads, Formula 98 

Hair Bleaching 99 

Whitening for the Face 99 

Barber's Itch 99 

Pomades 100 

Engraving Fluid 101 



Page 

Hair Cutting 31 

Proper Method of Holding Shears and Comb (il- 
lustration) 34 

Clipper Cut (illustration) 36 

Half Crown Hair Cut (illustration) 37 

Quarter Shingle Cut (illustration) 38 

Cut "a la Mode" (illustration) 41 

Professional Cut (illustration) 42 

Pompadour Cut (illustration) 43 

English Feather Edge (illustration) 44 

"Duchess" Cut (illustration) 45 

Business Cut (illustration) 46 

Use of Clippers (illustration) 48 

Lining Up 47 

Singeing (illustration) 49 

Beard Trimming 51 

English Military Trim (illustration) 53 

Russian Point Trim (illustration) 54 

"Van Dyke Trim (illustration) 55 

Lord Dundreary Trim (illustration) 56 

The Divided or "Dude Lewis" Trim (illustra-) 

tion) 58 

The Full Beard Trim (illustration) 59 

Hair Dressing 62 

Plate No. 1, Hair Dressing 64 

Plate No. II, Hair Dressing 65 

Plate No. Ill, Hair Dressing 65 

Plate No. IV, Hair Dressing 66 

Plate No. V, Hair Dressing "A Terminated Coiffure" 67 

New Patent or Pointed Pompadour (illustration) . . 68 
"Mary Anderson" or Parted Headdress, Front View 

(illustration) 69 

"Mary Anderson" Headdress, Side View (illustration) 70 
"Mary Anderson" Headdress, Slightly Modified, Rear 

View (illustration) 71 

Hair Dressing Prices 102 

Hair Treatment and Knowledge 74 

Honing Room 7 

Homing, Second Position (illustration) 8 

How to Hold Water Bottle (illustration) 28 



Massage 



Page 



77 



The Chemical Massage 80 

Vibratory Massage 81 

Electrical Massage 82 

Massage Prices 102 

Manicuring 73 

Our General Manager (illustration) 6 

Our Seattle Home (illustration) 4 

Our Spokane Home (illustration) 5 

Preface 3 

Preparatory Observation 12 

Proper Method of Stropping (illustration) 11 

Private Demonstration 12 

Science in the Barber Shop 89 

Shaving i4 

Shaving Movements 15 

First Position (illustration) 17 

Second Position (illustration) 18 

Third Position (illustration) 20 

First Position, Left Side (illustration) 23 

Second Position, Left Side (illustration) 24 

Drawing Skin Tight (illustration) 25 

Drawing Skin Tight Across Chin (illustration).. 26 

Stropping 10 

Shampooing (illustration) 72 

Skin Diseases aosd Antiseptics 83 

The Art of Beard Trimming 60 

The Hair and Scalp 85 

The Mustache 61 

Trade Prices 102 

Wrist and Free Arm Movement 13 



237 90 



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BINDERY INC. 

# MAY 90 
N. MANCHESTER, 
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